Posted by: Silver | July 26, 2012

Wolfville to Clare

Wolfville to Canning via New Minas:
Distance: 26 km
Ascent: 236 m
Cycling time: 1 hour, 35 minutes

Canning to Wilmot:
Distance: 60 km
Ascent: 374 m
Cycling time: 3 hours, 15 minutes

Wilmot to Middleton:
Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 43 m
Cycling time: 40 minutes

Middleton to Annapolis Royal:
Distance: 38 km
Ascent: don’t know – once again, my cycle computer failed to download the details

Annapolis Royal to Weymouth:
Distance: 65 km
Ascent: 696 m
Cycling time: 4 hours, 25 minutes

Weymouth to Clare:
Distance: 26 km
Ascent: 203 m
Cycling time: 1 hour, 50 minutes

So many people eventually offered to host me in the Annapolis Valley that I abandoned my usual schedule of two-nights-in-each-place and instead hopped down the valley in a series of one-night stops: lots of fairly short (sometimes very short!) rides, but endless packing, unpacking, meeting new people and giving interviews that made my days every bit as busy.

It was certainly no chore to keep meeting more of the wonderful people of this region, though, and although I hesitate to say it, given how much of a cliché it sounds, everybody really does seem to know everybody else around here! A good friend of my hosts in Sackville, who joined us for dinner the night I was there, turned out to also be a very good friend of my host in Clare, who was a good friend of my host in Weymouth, who had commissioned a painting from the wife of my host in Annapolis Royal! And my Annapolis Royal host had spent some time in the Yukon with one of the people who hosted me up there, a full two years ago now! I’ve also discovered numerous other connections between my recent hosts, my upcoming hosts and many mutual friends besides! The population may be divided between innumerable differently-named villages (the amalgamation fever that has swept through the rest of Canada doesn’t seem to have reached Nova Scotia yet…), but there nevertheless does seem to be a very strong sense of community here.

So strong, in fact, that I wasn’t actually as shocked as perhaps I should have been when my host in Canning pulled up next to a field of lettuce and proceeded to simply help herself to a head before calmly driving off again. A vague memory of a previous email in which my host had mentioned that her partner was a vegetable farmer helped to reduce my surprise at the apparent free-for-all sharing of produce, but the surprise that stayed with me all the way home was the fact that I could smell the lettuce as it sat in the car next to me – as an habituée of plastic-wrapped supermarket lettuce, I never even knew that lettuces had a smell!

This style of gravestone is very typical of eastern Canada, but the name in bold at the top is usually the family name of the person (or, more often, people) commemorated. Given that this whole journey has been about the value and importance of mothers, though, I couldn’t help noticing this particular stone

When they remember that you’ve come through British Columbia, valley residents suddenly get very embarrassed about their north and south ‘mountains’ (yes, that’s the north mountain in the background), but words are always relative, and here in Nova Scotia, ‘mountains’ is what they are…

Hands up everyone else who would be more enthusiastic about doing laundry if they had a view like this!

I may have got quite into this whole cycling thing after nearly 18,000km now, but there are still some extremes to which I definitely won’t be going (much to the relief of my Mum, I’m sure!)



  1. Wonderful to hear from you Silver. And always a pleasure to read about your adventures and view your pictures. Thank you for sharing.

  2. Well I think a tattoo of Ranger would be an excellent way to celebrate your journey when it’s over! 😉

    I saw this and thought of you; might be a way of getting your story (and the message about SOS) out amongst a wider range of people?

    • Thanks, Alix! Entry submitted…!

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